Washing machine reviews

Detergent residue

Following reports by concerned readers that their water-efficient washing machines left detergent residue on their clothes, we decided to recreate the problem in our labs and try to work out how to deal with it.

The problem comes about because some of the insoluble ingredients in detergents and some dirt don’t get washed out when used with a low-water program. Normal CHOICE tests didn’t pick this up because the standard rinse performance test measures the soluble component of detergent that’s left in the water after rinsing, not the insolubles. Also, our wash load is made up of white items (to best check the wash performance), which don’t show up detergent residue well.

Our testers used various detergents for the test, washing black items in two water-efficient machines (the Fisher & Paykel Aquasmart WLT70T60C and the Miele W1712), to see which produced the least residue:

• A powder detergent that was a poor performer in our last test.
• A high-performing powder, both new and in a humidified state (simulating a packet having been open for a while).
• High-performing clear top- and front-loading liquid detergents.

Only the high-performing liquid detergent didn’t leave any residue on our test load. Alternatively, using half the recommended dose of the high-performance laundry powder, dissolved in warm water, also reduced the problem (our powder detergent test on the top performing product showed that using 1/2 to 1/4 dose still produces a very good wash). CHOICE tests have shown that liquid detergent doesn’t wash quite as well as powders. But if your wash load (like most people’s) isn’t very dirty to start with, either option should get rid of detergent residue without compromising on wash performance.

Our testers also ran the Aquasmart on a ‘traditional’ wash - which uses twice the amount of water of the high-efficiency wash — and no residue was left behind. However, this defeats the purpose of buying a water-saving model in the first place.

We also asked the manufacturers about the issue:

Fisher & Paykel agreed that using a good-quality liquid detergent will reduce residue. It told us the problem tends to happen with very water-efficient machines, if you’re using poor-quality or old detergent - and living in an area with very hard water can exacerbate the problem. It also suggested not buying detergent in bulk, because once opened it absorbs moisture, which lowers performance and can cause residue problems. As a last resort, Fisher & Paykel suggests switching to warm water washing, or a 'traditional' wash.

Miele says it doesn't receive complaints of this nature, however if you've experienced this problem they recommend choosing a wash program with a temperature of at least 30°C which enables the detergent to dissolve. If you wash in cold, dissolving the powder in warm water first before pouring into the detergent dispenser is recommended; alternatively, use a good quality liquid detergent. (This is why Miele doesn't have a cold wash setting for all programs. Miele's cold setting will still heat to 24°C on models which offer this setting in selected programs. The only Miele model which offers a true cold setting in the Cottons program is the W 3985 WPS).

Miele also says that a white powder residue left on dark clothing is not detergent residue but Zeolite, a mineral now used in place of phosphates to soften water. Try to find a powder without Zeolites to prevent this residue being left behind on dark garments.

Liquid detergents do not contain Zeolites and are effective in hard water areas. Miele recommends using the 'Dark garments' programs which has been designed to not leave this residue behind, alternatively a Minimum Iron or Automatic program is also recommended as these use more water in the wash and rinse process.

Other things that help:

• Store detergent in an airtight container to prevent it becoming clumpy, which can make the problem worse.
• Try putting the residue-affected clothes in a dryer on the ‘air-dry’ setting (that is, without heat, just using the fan) for five minutes. Some people have found it helps ‘knock off’ the residue.

Update on Aquasmart 2

We tested the Fisher & Paykel Aquasmart in 2007 and found it performed well, however member feedback showed many users experienced detergent residue left behind due to the small amount of water it used in the wash. We tested for this, making suggestions on how to combat the fault without having to rerun the machine and removed it from our What to buy recommendation. We tested its replacement, the Fisher & Paykel WL80T65CW2 Aquasmart 2 and ran a few additional runs to see whether it left residue behind on black clothing from the detergent. Our tests showed it doesn’t, most probably from its increased water usage. Its performance doesn’t get our recommendation this time.

Scratchy towels

Unfortunately, another downside of front loaders (and water efficient top loaders for that matter) is that they often produce stiff, rough or scratchy towels. That’s because the clothes are generally tumbling through just a little water rather than floating through lots, like in an older-style top loader. And to get the fibres nicely fluffed up, the clothes need to be immersed in water.

Another reason could be that your top front loader is in fact too water efficient, in that it uses too little water for the rinse, leaving detergent residues in the wash. This is where a CHOICE report can help you choose a machine that’s good at rinsing while still being water efficient; the water rating labels only tell you water use, not rinse efficiency.

Short of drying your towels for hours in an energy-guzzling clothes dryer to get them soft, you can try the following to help reduce the "scratchy, flat" effect:

• Adding an extra rinse to your towels wash.
• Using a gentler program that uses more water.
• Lowering the spin speed; higher spin speeds tend to flatten the fibres and line drying doesn't fluff them back up, making them feel hard.
• Adding half to one cup of white vinegar to the fabric softener dispenser (don’t be tempted to use fabric softener, as this will lower the fabric’s ability to absorb water).
• Shaking your towels out vigorously, or putting them in the dryer on the cooling cycle for a few minutes before you hang them out to dry.
• Taking them off the line when still a little damp and drying them off in the dryer.

Miele's recommendation for this problem is to:

• Use the ‘Cottons’ program with ‘Water plus’ option and reduce the spin speed or alternatively use the ‘Automatic’ program.
• Use a good quality liquid detergent for front loaders and use fabric conditioner in the final rinse - Miele found that good quality fabric conditioners will not reduce the absorbency of the towels. Miele don't recommend the use of vinegar in the final rinse as its acidic nature can damage rubber components in the washing machine over time. If the laundry is stained then the addition of a liquid stain remover, such as Napisan Inwash liquid, is recommended to boost the efficiency of the detergent. 
• Shake the towels out before putting them on the line or alternatively put them in the dryer on a ‘cool’ setting for 10 minutes before hanging on the line. The tumbling action of the dryer will fluff the fibres back up, and minimal energy is used as the heating element is not switched on.

If you've had either of these problems, we'd love to hear about it in our comments section on how you deal with it and what works for you.

We've based the following guidelines on information from the Independent Living Centre (NSW):

If you’re in a wheelchair or have back problems:

• A front loader is generally easier to access. You can have it mounted on a raised surface to avoid bending (see Raising front loaders off the floor), or load and unload it while sitting down.
• Controls at the front of the machine are easier to access than at the back.
• Check the door is easy to open: one with a wide opening and that opens to a full 180 degrees is easier to load and unload.
• If you prefer a top loader, a smaller-capacity model with a shallow bowl may be easier to reach into and unload.
• A combination washer/dryer, though expensive, could save you some loading and unloading. However, their drying capacity is less than the full wash capacity, so you still have to do two drying loads or dry some of the washing elsewhere.

If you have an upper limb impairment:

• Look for one-touch start, keypad controls that are easy to press, and programming – like a "favourite cycle" function – that minimises the need to use your hands.
• Look for a big door handle.
• Rotary controls can be difficult to turn if you lack hand strength – electronic pushbuttons are easier.
• Check detergent and fabric dispensers are easy to pull out (or uncover), fill and clean.
• If you have a hand tremor, look for large knobs to grasp.

If you have a problem with vision:

• Labels and controls will be easier to use if they’re large, raised above the surface and have good contrast - black or dark-coloured writing on white is easiest to read.
• Large knobs, buttons and handles are likely to be easier to use.
• Generally, fewer programming options are better, though "favourite cycle" functions, as on Fisher & Paykel machines, mean only one button needs to be pushed to do a load once you’ve programmed it.
• Look for positive feedback like beeps when you push buttons, or other tactile, audio or visual feedback.
• In dark areas, a backlit liquid crystal display (LCD) can help.

For people with cognitive or memory impairment:

• Look for labelling that’s very clear.
• Some people might find pictures or graphics more useful than words.
• Choose appliances with few options for the controls.
• Appliances with auditory feedback can be a problem if this confuses the user. However, if memory is a problem a machine that sends an end-of-cycle signal could be useful.

Raising front loaders off the floor

If you have a bad back or use a wheelchair, squatting or bending down to load and unload a front loader can be difficult.

To help overcome access problems, you can mount a front loader on a plinth so its door is at waist height. Just make sure the plinth is stable and level, and able to hold the considerable weight of the front loader.

While Fisher & Paykel suggests the weight of the machine is sufficient to secure it on a stand if at least the front feet of the machine have levelling feet that can lock, other manufacturers advise securing the machine with the brackets supplied with the pedestal to prevent it from wobbling off during the spin cycle. Miele, too, advises securing its front loaders with the retaining clips it sells, and recommends the plinth be made of concrete that can support a load of 160 kg - it says its front loaders weigh 30–40% more than other brands’.

The Amazon Washing Machine/Dryer Stand 2110, available from most appliance retailers for $212, which raises the washer or dryer about 38cm off the floor, has a lockable drawer for storing and can be used with most front loaders.

To install, the stand must first be put into position and made level, and the washer (or dryer) is placed on it. The machine must then be made level, and its feet clamped to the stand at each corner to prevent horizontal movement. Installing the unit takes a fair amount of effort, particularly in tight laundry spaces, but is a one-off task.

CHOICE assessed the stand's ability to handle an unbalanced washing machine by putting it through a spin cycle with an unbalanced load. We repeated this test three times, and duplicated the process with another model. The clamps held firm and neither washer moved out of alignment with the stand. On two occasions the combined unit moved a few millimetres (as a washer on the floor may do), but was easily pushed back into position.